how about?» Experiencing the Ecuadorian Amazon or the cloud forest of Mindo (pp98-99) » Riding in the Andes (pp100-101). » A beach wind-down on Ecuador's Pacific coast (p96).Quito.Otavalo.ECUADOR.GuayaquilGALÁPAGOS ISLANDS.Avenue of the volcanoesEcuador and the Galápagos 14 days, 12 nightsQuito 4 nights, Galápagos 7n, Guayaquil 1n.Day 1 Fly from the UK to Quito, which has a sensational Andean setting. Accommodation in the city for 4 nights. Day 2 Full day excursion to the market town of Otavalo, with lunch at one of the historic haciendas. Day 3 Depart for Cotopaxi National Park (2hrs), and the spectacular sight of the world's highest volcano. Ascend by 4WD vehicle to the plateau (4,000m), a treeless expanse of wilderness strewn with boulders, dotted with dark lagoons and scoured by mists. On the final descent, lunch at a hacienda. Day 4 City tour of Quito?the whitewashed colonial heart has been carefully preserved and there are many delightful baroque churches lining narrow cobbled alleys. Days 5-11 Fly to the Galápagos Islands (1½hrs) for a cruise on the MV Santa Cruz (superior) or the small and friendly motor yacht Beagle (standard), which carries just 12 passengers plus crew. Day 12 Fly back to Guayaquil. Day 13 Fly to the UK, arriving day 14. Prices from £3,163pp (standard); £3,521pp (superior) based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Regular departures from the UK 020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 95DOMINIC HAMILTONLATIN TRAILS

The Northern Pacific lowlands of Ecuador have a gentle landscape of tropical agriculture, forest and warm-water bays. The area is more or less undiscovered by foreign visitors, but the tourist infrastructure is now gradually developing. There is a wide range of things to do, from whale watching to exploring pre-Columbian ruins, and diving and snorkelling at the coral reef around the Isla de la Plata where the bird and animal life?which includes colonies of waved albatrosses, frigate birds, boobies and sea-lions?is not afraid of human proximity. Or just relax on Los Frailes beach, one of the loveliest on the coast.An attractive destination here is the Machalilla National Park, which embraces and protects the tropical dry forest. Access is by air to Manta, a Pacific port, and on by road via Montecristi where panama hats are made. Stay at Mantaraya Lodge, which has a cliff-top location with ocean views and is surrounded by landscaped gardens.Just north of the remote mountain border with Peru lie some of Ecuador's most enchanting landscapes. Roads climb over waves of fertile green hills sheltering sub-tropical valleys such as Vilcabamba, where the healthy climate lengthens the lives of its inhabitants. Visit this serene and little-visited region from the traditional town of Loja, accessible by air from Quito.The Pacific Coast and the remote far south 96 Ecuador el faro escandinavo This unusual beach-front hotel is near the rocky capes of San Lorenzo, just south of Manta and a short walk from cloud forest where howler monkeys roam. Stand at the top of its white ornamental 'lighthouse' and you can observe humpback whales (Jun-Oct), and the dolphins, pelicans and frigate birds which nest on the cape. Rooms are simply decorated in white and cream; there is a library and classical music collection and a pool. You can take various optional excursions including visits to Montecristi, Agua Blanca pre-Columbian archaeological site and a full day on the 'mini-Galápagos' of Isla de la Plata.Los Frailes beach.ADVANTAGE TRAVELISABELLE MAZILLEISABELLE MAZILLE