The upland town of Otavalo, an hour's drive north of Quito, is world-famous for its huge livestock, vegetable and textile market, organised by the prosperous Otavalan indians who attend dressed in their distinctive costumes and elaborate jewellery (below). Surrounding the town there are lake-filled craters, rolling hills, cobbled lanes lined with silvery eucalyptus, and tiny, white-washed adobe villages each specialising in a cottage industry?leather ware, woodwork and dough-ball figurines. Visit in a day from Quito: take an excursion to the village of Calderón, continuing to Cayambe, dominated by its snow-tipped volcano, and on to Lago San Pablo, and the wood-carving community of San Antonio. Busy Ibarra is populated by indigenous mountain people and others of African origin. Inspect the leather goods in Cotacachi, and climb the stoneflagged track to the rim of Cuicocha volcanic crater lake.Alternatively, stay at one of a number of rural haciendas converted to receive guests. These are relatively new to tourism, still have an authentic feel, and most are run personally by their proprietors.Hacienda La Mirage: a romantic place with four-poster beds and French cuisine, this contemporary hacienda has antique-style furnishings and grounds populated by hummingbirds and peacocks. There's a pool, tennis courts and a spa with sauna and mud baths.Hacienda Cusín on the outskirts of San Pablo del Lago, was founded in 1602, and is one of the oldest haciendas in Ecuador. Rooms and cottages are furnished in the colonial style, some with private balconies.Otavalo and the north hacienda pinsaquí The friendly owner of this venerable hacienda-founded in 1790 as a textile mill-will make you feel well at home in a house where the equine theme in the décor reflects his enthusiasm for horses. He'll recount to you the illustrious history of the place, which has hosted many important guests such as the liberator Simon Bolivar. This prestigious atmosphere is underlined with antiques brought over from France and Spain. But at the same time it's a cosy property, with open fires and sheepskin rugs warming the 30 guest rooms. Wander through the extensive gardens among the ponds and palms, in the company of grazing llamas.94 EcuadorCountryside near Otavalo.SHUTTERSTOCK.COMMETROPOLITAN TOURINGMETROPOLITAN TOURING

how about?» Experiencing the Ecuadorian Amazon or the cloud forest of Mindo (pp98-99) » Riding in the Andes (pp100-101). » A beach wind-down on Ecuador's Pacific coast (p96).Quito.Otavalo.ECUADOR.GuayaquilGALÁPAGOS ISLANDS.Avenue of the volcanoesEcuador and the Galápagos 14 days, 12 nightsQuito 4 nights, Galápagos 7n, Guayaquil 1n.Day 1 Fly from the UK to Quito, which has a sensational Andean setting. Accommodation in the city for 4 nights. Day 2 Full day excursion to the market town of Otavalo, with lunch at one of the historic haciendas. Day 3 Depart for Cotopaxi National Park (2hrs), and the spectacular sight of the world's highest volcano. Ascend by 4WD vehicle to the plateau (4,000m), a treeless expanse of wilderness strewn with boulders, dotted with dark lagoons and scoured by mists. On the final descent, lunch at a hacienda. Day 4 City tour of Quito?the whitewashed colonial heart has been carefully preserved and there are many delightful baroque churches lining narrow cobbled alleys. Days 5-11 Fly to the Galápagos Islands (1½hrs) for a cruise on the MV Santa Cruz (superior) or the small and friendly motor yacht Beagle (standard), which carries just 12 passengers plus crew. Day 12 Fly back to Guayaquil. Day 13 Fly to the UK, arriving day 14. Prices from £3,163pp (standard); £3,521pp (superior) based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Regular departures from the UK 020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 95DOMINIC HAMILTONLATIN TRAILS