Guatemala's volcanic and cultural landscapes The volcano-fringed Guatemalan highlands,a region of mists and cool pine forests, grassy plains and granite mountains host villages of strong individual identity. Here, the traditional lifestyle is retained, yet the culture evolves, with the blending of the different religions and customs introduced over time. Many villages have thriving markets where livestock and produce juggle for space with artisan crafts and textiles. The Mayan empire's heritage is also on display: spiking through the canopy of the low-lying jungles beyond the highlands are the pyramids and temples of Tikal, one of the largest and most atmospheric archaeological sites on the continent.Start your visit in the former capital, Antigua (left) where a busy university town has retained its colonial character. Soak up the atmosphere at first class Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, converted from the ruins of a 17th century baroque monastery. It's a short drive from here to the shores of Lake Atitlan, flanked by fuming volcanoes casting ever-changing shadows over the water. The best-known handicraft market is at highland Chichicastenango: a pageant of brightly-dyed textiles, of bells and incense. The landscapes of north eastern Guatemala are a land of deep green, wooded limestone hills, networks of caves with emerging rivers, and scattered villages scarcely touched by the modern world. Visit the natural pools at Semuc Champey and the caves at the sleepy Indian village of Lanquín.Combine a visit to Tikal or Copán?over the border in Honduras?with a stay on Guatemala's unsung Caribbean coast at Livingston, at the mouth of Rio Dulce. Here brightly coloured houses reflect a thriving Caribbean community. Take a boat through the ravine to the fortress of Castillo de San Felipe, built to repel pirates 500 years ago.It's easy to take the opportunity of good transport links to include Belize in your holiday.It offers the coral beaches Guatemala lacks, and there are lovely countryside stays with a range of outdoor activities and wildlife observation. tikal At the vast ruined Mayan city Tikal (right) a network of steep sky-scraper pyramids pierce the remote forest canopy. For a truly magical experience, rise at dawn, or linger until dusk, when there are few other visitors around. At sunrise you will experience the tropical jungle filling with the agitated scream of parakeets and the haunting roar of howler monkeys; at sunset the site is bathed in a deep golden glow. To be able to do this you'll need to stay close by-the simple Jungle Lodge is perfectly positioned next to the entrance to the ruins.26 Guatemala & Belize The jungle lodge was of a much higher standard than I expected ...the best times to visit were early morning and evening. I had the Gran Plaza all to myself for sunset one evening. AW, Bethnal GreenRAFE STONEPV

BELIZEGUATEMALAMEXICO.Copán.Quirigua.Livingston..Guatemala CityAntiguaSantiago. de AtitlánChichicastenango..CobánFlores.Tikal National ParkHONDURASThe best of Guatemala 13 days, 11 nightsAntigua 2 nights, Lake Atitlán 2n, Antigua 1n, Copán 1n, Livingstone 1n, Tikal area 2n, Cobán 1n, Guatemala City 1n.Day 1 Fly to Guatemala City, arriving the same evening, and transfer to Antigua for 2 nights. Day 2 At leisure to explore. The baroque churches, chic shops, art galleries and pavement cafés are all within walking distance of the centre. Days 3&4 Drive to Lake Atitlán (2½hrs) which fills a collapsed volcanic cone. The lake is surrounded by forest-cloaked volcanoes and 12 villages where the inhabitants wear distinctive local costumes and practise age-old crafts. Take a short boat ride to your hotel in Santiago de Atitlán, renowned for its smoking God, Maximón. Day 5 Visit the market of Chichicastenango, famed for its wooden masks. Drive back to Antigua. Day 6 Drive over the border into Honduras to visit Copán, a Mayan city celebrated for its sculptures and intricate stelae. Guided tour of the ruins. Day 7 By road to Caribbean Rio Dulce, via the ruins at Quiriguá, then by boat through tropical forest to the Garifuna town of Livingston. Day 8 Visit San Felipe Fortress. Continue by road to Flores. Day 9 Explore the ruins and forest of Tikal National Park. Day 10 Drive to the remote and pristine cloud forests surrounding Cobán. En route are the Candelaria caves: the largest complex (30km long) in Central America, Day 11 Return to Guatemala City through the mountains via the Biotopo del Quetzal, a preservation area for the iconic bird, the Resplendent Quetzal. Return to Guatemala City. Day 12 Fly to the UK, arriving day 13. Prices from £1,581pp based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Regular departures from the UK how about?» Visiting some of the more off-the-beaten-track highland villages and markets, such as close-knit Todos Santos Cuchumatán in mountain walking country or Almolonga where the authentic flower, fruit and vegetable market is a riot of colour.020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 27SHUTTERSTOCK.COM