ISTOCKPHOTO.COM158 ArgentinaThe Atlantic coast of northern Patagonia is a desolate place of steep tawny cliffs with a hinterland of rough grasslands. But it is far from lifeless: The Valdés Peninsula, a spur of land jutting into the ocean, is a world-renowned reserve of wildlife to which species flock in their thousands and hundreds of thousands.There is something to enjoy almost year-round: elephant seals, dolphins and seabirds are permanent residents; the Southern Right whale arrives to breed from August to November and a million Magellanic penguins flock to the beaches at Punta Tombo from November to March. Doughty Welsh immigrants established frontier settlements in the valleys; Trelew, Puerto Madryn and Gaimán all retain architectural and gastronomic vestiges of this Celtic heritage. Puerto Madryn, the main base for excursions, has a wide range of accommodation. Several rustic estancias enjoy isolated settings on the Peninsula itself, such as Estancia Rincón Chico.Well off the beaten track, the seaweed-harvesting community of Bahía Bustamante is emerging as Patagonia's newest wildlife destination, attracting visitors to its seabird and sea lion colonies between August and March. Stay in one of the village's simple cottages and get a feel for the local way of life on a working Patagonian estancia. Beyond the yawning steppes, Southern Patagonia erupts into a landscape of immense glaciers, sheer granite rock walls with soaring pinnacles and minty lakes dotted with icebergs.El Calafate, on the shore of Lago Argentino, is the closest town to the Perito Moreno glacier and within a few hours' drive of El Chaltén in the Fitz Roy massif, a magnet for walkers.In addition to a range of hotels within these towns there are several inviting estancias and lodges in remote settings where you'll get a real wilderness feel. Alta Vista, between El Calafate and Perito Moreno is cosy estancia house with just 7 guest rooms and an elegant, almost English ambience. Meanwhile, rooms at Los Notros enjoy views of the Perito Moreno glacier itself. From El Calafate, it's a scenic day's drive to Torres del Paine National Park, in Chile (pp144-5).Patagonia: Valdés Peninsula and Los Glaciares National Park

CHILE..Puerto MonttBarilocheFrom Buenos AiresTo Buenos AiresTo SantiagoEl CalafatePerito MorenoGlacierPunta ArenasUshuaiaARGENTINA--- LAKE CROSSING EXTENSION ... eolo The setting is enchanting; the views across the silent, empty Patagonian steppes linger in the mind long after you've left. You'll be isolated on a remote working farm which cleverly combines the feel of an estancia ranch with the design of a modern, top-notch hotel (left). Excursions to nearby attractions can be arranged. In keeping with the atmosphere of Eolo's undisturbed, solitary setting there is no TV in your room. Instead, guests can unwind in the lounge, library, sauna and indoor pool. You'll be able to hear yourself think.Patagonia of Argentina and Chile 15 days, 12 nightsBuenos Aires 3 nights, Ushuaia 2n, El Calafate 3n, Torres del Paine 3n (standard), 4n (superior*), Santiago 1n.*Superior is 16 days, 13 nights, spends 4 nights at explora en Patagonia (see pp144-145) Day 1 Fly from the UK to Buenos Aires. Days 2-4 At leisure in the capital, including a city tour. Evening visit to a tango show with dinner. Days 5&6 Fly to Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel, in the shadow of a hand of jagged mountains. Excursion to Tierra del Fuego National Park (p160). The unique vegetation here enhances the beauty of its mountains, lakes, creeks and gorges. Shared catamaran trip down the channel. Day 7 Fly to El Calafate, on the shores of Lago Argentino. Day 8 Excursion to Perito Moreno Glacier. Day 9 Optional boat trip on Lago Argentino to historic Estancia Cristina, near the Upsala Glacier. Days 10-12 Drive over the border to Chile's Torres del Paine National Park (pp144-145). Stay at one of the lodges inside or on the edge of the park. Day 13 Drive to Punta Arenas (5hrs) and fly to Santiago (or Puerto Montt?see alternative below). Day 14 Fly to the UK arriving day 15. Prices from £2,468pp (standard). Standard with lake crossing extension from £2,996pp. Superior from £4,346. Superior with lake crossing extension from £5,002. Lake crossing extension to Argentina 19 days, 16 nightsAs above, but on day 13 fly to Puerto Montt and continue as follows: Puerto Varas 1 night, Bariloche 2n, Buenos Aires 1n.Day 13 Fly to Puerto Montt, overnight at lakeside Puerto Varas, within sight of Osorno Volcano. Day 14 Cross the Andes from Chile to Argentina through the lake district to Bariloche. Day 15 At leisure in Bariloche (p162). Day 16 Fly to Buenos Aires. Day 17 Fly to the UK arriving day 18. (Superior, day 19). Regular departures from the UK 020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 159 Eolo surpassed all my expectations. Staff were extremely helpful. Accommodation and facilities were of the highest quality. AW, WisbechBelow Perito Moreno glacier-the wall of ice is 60m high. On the shore, you are close enough to hear the ice cracking: periodically a spire the size of a cathedral crashes, in apparently slow motion, into the lake.Torres del PaineNational ParkTierra del FuegoNational ParkEOLOISTOCKPHOTO.COM