Estancias and retreatsThere's a lot to discover in the vast territory of Argentina but in your eagerness to see the highlights don't miss the opportunity to sit back and savour the country life so beloved of the Argentineans. Choose from a number of prestigious rural estates, both long-established and contemporary, which have been adapted to receive visitors. If you prefer to stretch out on a beach, try broad glossy sands at the chic resort of Punta del Este in Uruguay, which is just an hour or two's hop by catamaran over the River Plate. The huge country estates (estancias) of the flat pampa surrounding Buenos Aires evoke classicArgentina: sun-weathered gauchos, elegant country mansions set in poplar-lined, landscaped parklands, lush pasture and dewy polo fields. Our favourite estancias include La Bamba, La Porteña and El Rocío (right). Each has its own unique character, but all offer an idyllic retreat from the city: an outdoor pool for hot summer afternoons, log fires to take the chill out of autumn evenings, and opportunities for gentle countryside walks and horse riding. estancia los potreros Argentineans are renowned for their love of horses. Well cared-for steeds are waiting to fulfil your dream of a gaucho experience at Estancia Los Potreros, an isolated property and working cattle farm which has been in the same Anglo-Argentine family for four generations. The rolling moorland around Córdoba is an inviting environment for experienced and beginner riders alike, and there's a particularly warm welcome from your hosts, who will regale you with stories over a glass of wine and a home-cooked country dinner in their cosy lounge. 152 ArgentinaBelow Exploring Córdoba's Sierras Chicas hills at Estancia Los Potreros.estAncia el rociolos potreroslos potreros

The beaches of Argentina's tiny neighbour, Uruguay, are justly celebrated and visitors flock to the sweeping sands of the principal holiday resort, Punta del Este. Flashy high rise blocks, luxury villas, top-notch restaurants and shopping malls line the sea front but one long-standing hotel, L'Auberge, with its country-house-style accommodation, has a more traditional, European ambience. The property sits in generous, well-ordered gardens 200m from the best stretch of beach in the resort.If you'd like to explore peaceful Uruguay further, spend a few days at one of a number of country hotels and estancias. The hilly countryside is serene and extremely pretty. Try the family-friendly, colonial style San Pedro de Timote, a former Jesuit estancia. Stay at El Charabón, a cattle ranch on the Atlantic coast, or Italian-founded arty La Vigna, where you can savour local wines, near the village of Colonia an hour's sea crossing from Buenos Aires. hotel alvear palace Buenos Aires is a city crammed with delights: its historic colonial centre, the colourful Italian port district of La Boca, the antique markets and tango shows of San Telmo, the fashionable boutiques and restaurants of frenchified Recoleta and the imaginatively restored Puerto Madero docklands. There's a lot to see and do but based at this famous luxury hotel your stay in the capital is total pleasure. The building recalls bygone times, recreating the elegance and refinement of the ornate belle époque period, enhanced with 21st century efficiency and attitudes to service. Wallow in the sumptuous atmosphere: marble staircases, original works of art, Egyptian cotton sheets and fresh flowers. After a day pounding the streets visit the spa and indoor pool to wind down; then dine on some of the country's best haute cuisine. Really enjoyed Buenos Aires and will go back. Great vibe, lives up to its 'Paris of South America' label. So many interesting places to see, either alone or guide-assisted. Felt really safe throughout. MH, Twickenham020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 153 Just an hour's flight away in the eastern foothills of the Andes, verdant scenery in the Córdoba region hosts well-appointed and friendly country estates. Estancia El Colibrí (above) is a luxurious, family-run boutique hotel and polo club. There is an indoor spa and, outside, an ample swimming pool with mountain views. The estate's complimentary activities include tropical-riding, cycling, and bird watching.los potrerosbest of patagoniaEstancia el Colibri