CHILEARGENTINA...To Buenos AiresUshuaiaBalmaceda San RafaelGlacierPunta ArenasFrom SantiagoPuyuhuapi.Torres del Paine National ParkCape Horn puyuhuapi spa hotel You can penetrate deep into this wild and sparsely habited region -including a 5-hour sail by catamaran-and find yourself staying at this delightful hotel, where the emphasis is on total relaxation with facilities such as Jacuzzi, sauna, indoor thermal springs, swimming pool and a host of hydro-therapies and massages. From here you can visit the translucent blue Queulat hanging glacier (left), cruise to the San Rafael glacier or hire kayaks or a motor boat. Via Australis cruise was unique. the entertainment value was priceless; people devoted to their profession difficult to rival. TN, County Waterford, Ireland020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 143Wilderness Patagonia 17 days, 14 nightsSantiago 1 night, Puyuhuapi 3n, Punta Arenas 1n, Torres del Paine National Park 3n, Australis cruise 4n, Buenos Aires 2n.Day 1 Fly from the UK. Day 2 Arrive Santiago, rest of the day at leisure. Days 3&4 Fly to Balmaceda in central Patagonia. Scenic valley and forest drive (2hrs) and by catamaran (5hrs) through the fjords to the lakeside spa (Termas) at Puyuhuapi for a 2-night stay. Day 5 Full day catamaran cruise to the San Rafael Glacier. Overnight at Puerto Chacabuco. Day 6 Fly to Punta Arenas for one night. Days 7-9 Drive across windswept steppe grasslands towards the monumental granite massif and icy spires of Torres del Paine. You'll be staying at the Patagonia Camp (p144) in an en suite, luxury yurt; just a canvas-width away from nature's finest wilderness but cosily protected from everything the weather can throw at you in these latitudes. Days 10-13 Embark for a 4 night cruise on MV Via Australis, a 64-cabin expedition cruise ship which will weave its way through the sinuous network of channels and islands between Punta Arenas and the most southerly city in the world, Ushuaia, on the shores of Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. There is a daily programme of onshore guided excursions. Days 14&15 Fly to Buenos Aires for 2 nights based in a central hotel, with a guided city tour included. Day 16 Fly to the UK, arriving day 17. Prices from £4,233pp based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Departs Sunday and Thursday from the UK Patagonia Connectionsenderoscruceros australis

It's a 4 hour flight due south from Santiago to Punta Arenas, followed by a drive alongside the Straits of Magellan and Last Hope Sound via Puerto Natales, to the pinnacle of Chile's natural landscapes, Torres del Paine National Park. The Cuernos del Paine is a granite massif which has been sliced apart and polished smooth by glaciers. Beyond are the vertical triple towers of the Torres del Paine, the crowning glory of this massif which dominates one of South America's greatest national parks. Wind-battered grasslands lead up to sheltered glacial valleys with flowery meadows, torrential rivers surging with ice are interlaced with glassy lagoons. Wildlife abounds everywhere, from geese to guanaco; lucky visitors may spot a puma or condor, especially in the low season from April to October.There are enough different ways of exploring the park to suit everyone. You can tour in comfort by vehicle, with occasional leisurely walks, or go on invigorating all-day hikes. Accommodation ranges from cosy hotels (Hosteria Lago Grey and Hosteria Las Torres), to the luxurious lodge at explora and innovative, permanent camps: Patagonia Camp (below) and Eco Camp (p146).For a unique experience just outside the park you can spend a few days at Estancia Cerro Guido, a vast working sheep ranch dating back to the pioneering days of the early 20th century.Torres del Paine is within a day's drive of El Calafate in Argentinean Patagonia and, beyond, the sheer towers of the Fitz Roy massif, with its landscape of turquoise lakes and glaciers (pp158-161).Torres del Paine National Park explora en patagonia View the violent theatre of a Patagonian storm or contemplate the artistry of a fiery sunset through a huge picture window from a comfy sofa, maybe a glass of wine in your hand, after a gourmet meal. This extremely high quality hotel has the best setting in the Park, on the shores of Lake Pehoé (right)and there's a sense of intimacy with, rather than seclusion from, the elements. There is an indoor swimming pool and an open-air Jacuzzi-great for a relaxing soak after an invigorating day in the wilds. You can choose from a comprehensive programme of excursions - from rambles and horse rides, to full-day hikes. 144 Chile Torres del Paine - windy, wild with epic scenery. FM, NantwichBelow Sunrise at the Patagonia Camp, above Lago Toro. A canvas-width separates you from the elements, but the warm and cosy yurts are as well-appointed as a hotel room.exploraexploraDAVID NICHOLS