South of the lake district lies the remote Aisen region, crossed by the Carretera Austral ('Southern Highway'), a tremendous feat of engineering completed in 1983. This lonely road negotiates a shattered landscape of mountain passes and glaciers, and crosses dozens of icy rivers, lakes and fjords as it weaves south from Puerto Montt to where the land runs out.From Puerto Montt a ferry trip across a narrow strait, enlivened by dolphins, takes you to Chiloé, misty island of cool forests and secret coves. Here, missionaries built the 150 centuries-old wooden churches while brightly coloured fishing boats show a continued reliance on the fruits of the sea. Stay at a small homestead in the countryside or a modest hotel in the port of Ancud.Within the Chilean lake district, but with a feeling of remoteness associated with the Aisén region, is the glacial valley of Cochamó, a wilderness of granite peaks, crystalline rivers, waterfalls and towering native Valdivian rainforest. Spend a couple of nights at the simple lodge at Campo Aventura. You can relax beside the nearby river and its beaches, with a boat trip on Reloncavi fjord. Horse riders of all abilities can ride the Cochamó Trail, a far-flung pass winding its way across the Andes.So fractured is this landscape that many prefer to discover the region by water: cruises on well-appointed expedition ships take you through the remote channels around the San Rafael glacier south of the lake district, or to the forbidding ice walls of the southernmost tip of the continent. Sister ships Stella Australis and Via Australis travel between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia in Argentinean Tierra del Fuego via Cape Horn, and the Skorpios ships offer routes through the Chilean archipelago as far north as Chiloé.Hidden Patagonia 142 Chileskorpiosjuan carlos gedda

CHILEARGENTINA...To Buenos AiresUshuaiaBalmaceda San RafaelGlacierPunta ArenasFrom SantiagoPuyuhuapi.Torres del Paine National ParkCape Horn puyuhuapi spa hotel You can penetrate deep into this wild and sparsely habited region -including a 5-hour sail by catamaran-and find yourself staying at this delightful hotel, where the emphasis is on total relaxation with facilities such as Jacuzzi, sauna, indoor thermal springs, swimming pool and a host of hydro-therapies and massages. From here you can visit the translucent blue Queulat hanging glacier (left), cruise to the San Rafael glacier or hire kayaks or a motor boat. Via Australis cruise was unique. the entertainment value was priceless; people devoted to their profession difficult to rival. TN, County Waterford, Ireland020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 143Wilderness Patagonia 17 days, 14 nightsSantiago 1 night, Puyuhuapi 3n, Punta Arenas 1n, Torres del Paine National Park 3n, Australis cruise 4n, Buenos Aires 2n.Day 1 Fly from the UK. Day 2 Arrive Santiago, rest of the day at leisure. Days 3&4 Fly to Balmaceda in central Patagonia. Scenic valley and forest drive (2hrs) and by catamaran (5hrs) through the fjords to the lakeside spa (Termas) at Puyuhuapi for a 2-night stay. Day 5 Full day catamaran cruise to the San Rafael Glacier. Overnight at Puerto Chacabuco. Day 6 Fly to Punta Arenas for one night. Days 7-9 Drive across windswept steppe grasslands towards the monumental granite massif and icy spires of Torres del Paine. You'll be staying at the Patagonia Camp (p144) in an en suite, luxury yurt; just a canvas-width away from nature's finest wilderness but cosily protected from everything the weather can throw at you in these latitudes. Days 10-13 Embark for a 4 night cruise on MV Via Australis, a 64-cabin expedition cruise ship which will weave its way through the sinuous network of channels and islands between Punta Arenas and the most southerly city in the world, Ushuaia, on the shores of Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. There is a daily programme of onshore guided excursions. Days 14&15 Fly to Buenos Aires for 2 nights based in a central hotel, with a guided city tour included. Day 16 Fly to the UK, arriving day 17. Prices from £4,233pp based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Departs Sunday and Thursday from the UK Patagonia Connectionsenderoscruceros australis