how about?» Self-driving through Argentina's lake district or far-flung north-western canyons (pp162-163). Quincho Country Home had absolutely superb accommodation, food and service. JM, InvernessCHILEARGENTINA......PucónColchagua ValleySantiagoPunta ArenasPuerto MonttPuerto VarasLake districtTorres del Paine National ParkIt seems that each of the royal blue lakes in this region of chocolate-box prettiness is overlooked by its own snow-dipped volcano. You can visit traditional villages of neat wooden cottages and stay at good quality hotels in lively waterside resorts such as Pucón and Puerto Varas, with guided excursions. But there are other ways to enjoy these serene landscapes.You can have a more active holiday with guided hikes along country trails, taking you up close to the volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco, through a fairyland of mossy, ancient alerce forests, and to the shores of hidden lakes. Or explore at the pace of your choice. Drive your own hire car along scenic paved and gravel roads; you'll have more independence and flexibility but also the security of pre-booked hotels.Cross into Argentina through one of the few chinks in the Andean wall from Puerto Varas to Bariloche?three lake crossings interlaced with four separate road journeys. Glacial lakes are flanked by sheer rock faces, monkey-puzzled piedmonts, and steep snow-capped peaks. Freedom of the road 18 days, 15 nightsSantiago 1 night, Colchagua Valley vineyards 3n, Santiago 1n, lake district self-drive hotels 6n, Torres del Paine 3n, Santiago 1n.Day 1 Fly from the UK. Day 2 Arrive Santiago, rest of the day at leisure. Days 3-5 Exploring the Colchagua Valley vineyards by hire car. We arrange a transfer from Santiago: collect your vehicle close to your first night's accommodation at Casa Silva on a 19th century estate. Beyond, peaceful Viña la Playa is set amid lawns and surrounded by vineyards. You have 2 full days at leisure to visit exquisite wine cellars, drop in on rustic local restaurants and stretch your legs in sleepy colonial towns. Day 6 We transfer you back to Santiago. Days 7-12 Fly to Temuco in the lake district for 6 days' exploration by hire car. There are 2 nights in Pucón (black sand beach, water sports, river-rafting, volcano climbing), 1 in Huife (thermal baths), 2 in Huilo Huilo and 1 in the Bavarian-style resort of Puerto Varas. There are about 700km of driving, so you have plenty of time to pull up and enjoy panoramic views. Days 13-15 Transfer to Puerto Montt airport and fly to Punta Arenas in Patagonia (2hrs). Transfer to Eco Camp in Torres del Paine National Park (p144) for 3 nights. Based in an en-suite dome, explore the national park with a choice of guided excursions. Day 16 Transfer to Punta Arenas airport for flight to Santiago (4½hrs). Day 17 Fly to the UK, arriving day 18. Prices from £3,166pp based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Regular departures from the UK quincho country home This is the perfect environment in which to relax in a real 'home from home'. The imposing house, overlooking two volcanoes close to Puerto Varas, has just 4 large, luxurious suites and a cosy living room with open log fire. Choose from a menu of excursions to nearby beauty spots, from easy sightseeing tours to hiking, horse-riding and white water rafting; or just enjoy a bottle of wine in the tranquillity of the extensive grounds. 020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 141The Chilean lake district Below The volcanoes of Osorno and Calbuco, near Puerto Varas.istockphoto.com

South of the lake district lies the remote Aisen region, crossed by the Carretera Austral ('Southern Highway'), a tremendous feat of engineering completed in 1983. This lonely road negotiates a shattered landscape of mountain passes and glaciers, and crosses dozens of icy rivers, lakes and fjords as it weaves south from Puerto Montt to where the land runs out.From Puerto Montt a ferry trip across a narrow strait, enlivened by dolphins, takes you to Chiloé, misty island of cool forests and secret coves. Here, missionaries built the 150 centuries-old wooden churches while brightly coloured fishing boats show a continued reliance on the fruits of the sea. Stay at a small homestead in the countryside or a modest hotel in the port of Ancud.Within the Chilean lake district, but with a feeling of remoteness associated with the Aisén region, is the glacial valley of Cochamó, a wilderness of granite peaks, crystalline rivers, waterfalls and towering native Valdivian rainforest. Spend a couple of nights at the simple lodge at Campo Aventura. You can relax beside the nearby river and its beaches, with a boat trip on Reloncavi fjord. Horse riders of all abilities can ride the Cochamó Trail, a far-flung pass winding its way across the Andes.So fractured is this landscape that many prefer to discover the region by water: cruises on well-appointed expedition ships take you through the remote channels around the San Rafael glacier south of the lake district, or to the forbidding ice walls of the southernmost tip of the continent. Sister ships Stella Australis and Via Australis travel between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia in Argentinean Tierra del Fuego via Cape Horn, and the Skorpios ships offer routes through the Chilean archipelago as far north as Chiloé.Hidden Patagonia 142 Chileskorpiosjuan carlos gedda