Chiapas and the gulf coast In the highland state of Chiapas the culture of the indigenous population reigns supreme. It offers one of Mexico's most evocative step-back-in-time experiences, with the villages surrounding the capital San Cristóbal, both a stronghold of surviving indian lifestyle and traditionally a focal point of uprisings and political rebellion. Here the landscapes are savage, with jungle, rivers, canyons and lakes a backdrop to some of the finest pre-Columbian ruined cities.The Tzotzil villages west of San Cristóbal and other indigenous settlements such as San Juan Chamula are best visited on a Sunday, when there are craft markets? each village has its own distinctive dress and craft speciality. There are also festivals throughout the year which are worth a visit, with pagan rituals and Christian traditions making an appearance.The yawning Sumidero Canyon is a kilometre deep, with vertical limestone cliffs plunging into the trapped green waters of the river below; the road above is punctuated with viewpoints.Moving further east the highlight is indisputably the religious centre at Mayan Palenque, once throttled by the tentacles of the surrounding jungle but now revealed in all the glory of its intricate masonry?vaults, pyramids, pillars and sculptures, all constructed on a series of terraces. From here, you can visit Bonampak, famous for the colourful and graphic murals in the Temple of the Frescoes, and ornately decorated Yaxchilan, where the temples are now home to hoardes of howler monkeys.12 Mexico Highlights? Visits to Palenque, with a romantic setting in jungle, and the excellent Sumidero Canyon which was very spectacular. Visit to Tzotzil village of San Juan Chamula as it's so unspoilt. GM, BeckenhamBW SKYUM

MEXICOGUATEMALAHONDURAS.........Mexico CityCholulaCelestúnSan CristóbalMéridaTuxtlaPalenque VillahermosaIzamálBELIZELacandónrainforestTo escape the heat and humidity of the junglehead up the gulf coast to Celestún, a low-key resort (popular among Mexican families) in a coastal wilderness dotted with shallow lagoons where stands of flamingos (in summer, up to 20,000 birds) feed in the algae-rich reflective waters. The area is replete with twisted mangroves and sandbars, and prolific birdlife (kingfishers, storks, hawks), you might also spot crocodiles. Remote Mayan sites and wild coast 15 days, 13 nightsMexico City 3 nights, San Cristóbal 2n, Palenque 2n, Mérida 2n, Celestún 3n, Mérida 1n.Day 1 Fly from the UK to Mexico City, arrive the same evening. Day 2 Visit the historical centre of Mexico City including its sinking cathedral and the magnificent National Palace. Continue to Teotihuacan, walk 'The Avenue of the Dead' and explore the pyramids of the sun and the moon. Day 3 At leisure. Day 4 Fly to Tuxtla, in the highlands of Chiapas, and drive via the Sumidero Canyon to San Cristóbal de las Casas. Day 5 Half day excursion to the nearby villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán. Day 6 Drive out of the highlands to Palenque and into the Lacandón rainforest. Day 7 Visit the Mayan site of Bonampak Yaxchilán. Day 8 Visit Palenque's ruins. Drive to Villahermosa then fly to Mérida. Day 9 A full day excursion to see the 30m high pyramid of the Magician that greets you as you enter Uxmal; and the lesser visited site of Kabah which dates back to 3 BC and is famed for the impressive 'Palace of Masks'. Days 10-12 By road (2hrs) to Celestún, stay at the peaceful Eco-Paraíso Xixim. Day 13 Return to Mérida. Day 14 Fly to the UK, arriving day 15. Prices from £2,366pp based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Daily from the UK 020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 13how about?» Taking a day trip from Mexico City to the floating gardens of Xochimilco. » Visiting Coyoacán, with attractive squares and public buildings and a lively cultural life. Here, the homes of former residents artist Frida Kahlo, her husband muralist Diego Rivera and revolutionary Leon Trotsky are open to visitors. » Extending your journey with a few nights in the UNESCO-protected, picturesque port town of Campeche (p18). hotel eco-paraíso xixim Lovers of nature and of peace and quiet will be attracted by this property, situated in coconut groves behind a virgin, shell-strewn beach. The secluded thatched bungalows, all with private terrace and sea views, are scattered around the grounds. There's a swimming pool where you can cool off but, in harmony with its eco-philosophy, only one television. It's not luxurious; the accommodation is simple, but facilities were upgraded in 2009. It's just a short way up the coast from Celestún, which has low-key tourist facilities. Left The temple of the inscriptions at Palenque which houses the tomb of Pakal.SHUTTERSTOCK.COMEco-Paraiso XiximSHUTTERSTOCK.COM