casa andinaLake TiticacaShimmering in the crisp translucent light of a sunny day, this high-altitude sapphire lake is not only a magnificent sight but reflects the confluence of several influential indian cultures. A national reserve, it is home to a cornucopia of wildlife, especially birds, while human activity based on llama grazing and fishing has colonised its shores and many of its claw-like peninsulas and seventy islands for centuries.The lake is shared between contemporary Peru and Bolivia. Remains of older occupation are still in evidence and visitors flock to the funereal towers of the Colla people at Sillustani and the floating reed islands of the Uros. The people of vehicle-free islands such as Taquile, Amantaní, Suasi and the Islands of the Sun and the Moon defend their traditions and rural way of life, while welcoming visitors with a low-key hospitality. Spend a couple of nights on Taquile sharing the simple home of a local family; on the Island of the Sun at the rustic Posada del Inca in Bolivia (p132) or the upmarket Casa Andina Private Collection on Suasi (left).The lake's fringes are well-populated and the fertile land supports many small farming communities. For a really authentic experience you can visit the friendly Quechua Indians of The Uros Islands: we really appreciated being welcomed to the Islands and having their way of life explained to us. JL, london124 Peru

ISABELLE MAZILLEAndean ExperiencePROM PERU.Lima.Cusco.Machu PicchuPERUBOLIVIALake TiticacaPuno.La Paz..Sun IslandLlachon peninsula, spending the night at a local house and eating home-cooked food while learning about their agricultural skills, fishing techniques and weaving.For a more conventional stay, base yourselves at one of the principal towns on the lake such as Peruvian Puno, where there is a good choice of hotels, or at the religious sanctuary of Copacabana in Bolivia (p132). Lake Titicaca is reached in a day by road or rail from Cusco in Peru or from La Paz, Bolivia, by road and ferry: cross a corner of the lake by motor catamaran, spending a night on the boat or on Sun Island, where there is time to ramble through its pretty countryside and visit Inca ruins. You can also fly from Lima to lakeside Juliaca, or take a high-altitude road from the Colca Canyon.020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 125 titilaka Enjoy the lake from a countryside location and observe the tangerine and magenta sunrise or sunset reflected in the cobalt waters from your bed. This state-of-the-art luxury property sits on a pretty peninsula and is surrounded by traditional villages. But the structure doesn't intrude on their bucolic way of life. Even given its bold, contemporary style, the hotel still manages to fit in sympathetically with the rural landscape. A choice of exclusive and unusual excursions will keep you away from the tourist crowds and give you an unsullied insight into the life and history of this ancient land. Pacific to Andes 10 days, 8 nightsLima 1n, Cusco 2n, Machu Picchu 1n, Cusco 1n, Puno 1n, La Paz 2n.Day 1 Fly to Lima and transfer to hotel. Day 2 Fly to Cusco. City tour of the Inca city and visit to Inca sites including the temple fortress of Sacsayhuamán. Day 3 Full day excursion to the Sacred Valley of the Incas, including Pisac and the citadel at Ollantaytambo. Day 4 Take the train to Machu Picchu following the white-water Urubamba River downstream to the sub-tropical 'lost city' of the Inca. Overnight near the ruins. Day 5 Return to Cusco by train. Day 6 Full day railway journey through the high altitude central valley to Puno. The train glides along through fields worked by children and oxen; past sheep and llamas, and women spinning. The line climbs to over 4,300m at La Raya, flanked by snow-capped peaks. Day 7 Cross a corner of Lake Titicaca by road and water via the Island of the Sun to La Paz, Bolivia. Day 8 Tour of this lively city to appreciate the neat colonial squares, animated indian street markets and modern boulevards. Day 9 Fly to the UK, arriving day 10. Prices from £1,299pp (standard); £1,629pp (superior); £2,651pp (deluxe) based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights. Regular departures from the UK