LIBERTADORISTOCKPHOTO.COMROSE LATHAMSouth of Lima the Pan-American Highway traces the Pacific coast through the Atacama Desert to Arequipa and beyond to the Chilean border. Inland, this barren wilderness dotted with volcanoes rises towards the flanks of the Andes, occasionally relieved by a fertile valley or oasis.The angular cliffs and contorted rocks of the Paracas Peninsula National Park were home to a culture that pre-dated the Incas by a thousand years and there's a mesmerising museum here. It also shelters the world's highest concentration of marine birds. In the last couple of years it has become one of Peru's fastest growing tourist destinations and it's easy to spend several rewarding days here. You can fly over the Nasca Lines from nearby Pisco, and it's the jumping off point for boat trips out to the Ballestas Islands, slabs of guano-covered rock rising from the Ocean and the adopted home of tens of thousands of seabirds and colonies of sea-lions.Several high quality hotels have recently opened here, some fully equipped with spas, boutiques, pools and beauty parlours; they also offer water-based excursions. Among the best is the new first class Hotel Paracas, A Luxury Collection Resort. Other hotels in the vicinity are La Hacienda Bahía Paracas and mid-range DoubleTree by Hilton Resort Peru?Paracas.Inland, the elusive Nasca culture flourished for several hundred years and is credited with the authorship of the giant figures carved into the arid landscape (thought to be an astrological calendar). Ica, Peru's principal wine centre, is set in an oasis beside towering sand dunes.Arequipa (right) is the gateway to the isolated, kilometre-deep Colca Canyon. Here, giant amphitheatrical terraces dwarf the tiny settlements with their baroque churches; villagers wear elaborate embroidered costume.Southern Peru: Nasca, Arequipa and the Colca Canyon 120 Peru We had a really excellent view of the condor. The condors were so close we could hear the noise their wings made as they rode the thermals. VW, Billericay

SUMAQPROM PERUORIENT EXPRESS020 8747 8315 / journeylatinamerica.co.uk bookings, consultant advice and additional information 121 las casitas del colca Set on a ledge above the Colca river, the luxury Orient Express hotel provides a really relaxing place from which to enjoy excursions into the canyon. Scattered throughout the gardens are 20 individual cottages with private plunge pool and spacious rooms with classic furnishings and modern comforts (such as under-floor heating). In harmony with its surroundings, the hotel offers ambitious cuisine using produce from its own garden. There's a choice of excursions including guided walks, biking, horse riding and even cookery classes if you can drag yourself away from the spa and outdoor pool. Lodges are delightful and the food superb. Horse riding, cycling, all available plus a full spa (gorgeous!) Real escapism. EP, Wimbledon